I took the weekend to get over my writer's block. I figured I would leave the holiday promotion stuff to Lavinia Nixon and her Getaway program. Instead I have decided to provide snapshots of the funnier bits of Samoa
My flight into Apia also carried weighlifters from New Zealand, China and Italy. At first I thought they were rugby players, I was going to Samoa after all, but no these guys were on their way to the Pacific Rim, Commonwealth, Oceania and South Pacific Weightlifting Championships. The very strong Chinese contingent probably should have been a give away that they weren't rugby players.
As I mentioned last week, Apia isn't full of tourist attractions so it was that I found myself attending an afternoon and evening of the weightlifting. I haven't been to a weightlifting event before and the highlight of weightlifting on TV is Darrel Eastlake's commentary so I wasn't expecting too much. A good thing as well, the weightlifting wasn't overly entertaining. At least the organisers had paired locals villages up to different countries and their vocal support, especially the village supporting the lone Italian, was entertaining as was the tension as the "local" hero, Nauruian Peter Yukio, narrowly missed out on gold.
The highlight of the Championships were the medal ceremonies. The two categories I watched had 8 and 10 competitors respectively. It seems all 18 received at least one medal. Some received five or six medals, and the number of medals was in no way a reflection of performance. Invariably the Chinese guy won, but before he received his gold medal for the Pacific Rim section of the tournament the medals for the Junior and Senior Commonwealth, Oceania and South Pacific Championships had to be awarded. So the kid from Tuvalu who finished last in the afternoon stepped up to the podium for silver in the Junior South Pacific, bronze in the Senior South Pacific, bronze in the Junior Oceania and bronze in the Junior Commonwealth sections. He was a very happy boy. Even the Italian guy got a medal just for showing up. Obviously, it was all about participation.
To fill another day, Jess volunteered me to wait at the house for the plumber to come and fix a running tap. I am not sure whether I should say plumber or plumbers, for 15 minutes after the arranged time (very prompt for Samoa/Tonga) a ute pulled up bearing about six people.
The first to the door was obviously the boss. He drove the ute, introduced his team, found out what the problem was and gave instructions. Didn’t touch the tap.
The second, third and fourth guys were young and obviously the lackeys. On the boss’ instructions they scurried around outside turning off taps, unblocking drains, etc. Didn’t touch the tap.
Next came an old guy with a sack of tools, the plumber. He proceeded to take apart the tap and put it back together with the random assortment of tools he had in his sack and using bits from the spare tap Jess’s step dad had brought over.
It was more like a military operation, but still the tap was broken again before I left two weeks later.
It was nice to be able to settle down each morning with a cup of coffee and the newspaper whilst I was in Samoa. I could do that in Tonga, but reading the headlines alone would take me all day, there are no English language papers here. The Samoan papers use English as their main language, but that isn't to say they are in English. There were some highlights though. Most notable during my weeks in Samoa was the debate about the legality of homosexual relationships. Sex with somebody of the same sex is probably already illegal in Samoa, but that didn't prevent a substantial amount of debate and name calling in the letters to the editor section with some people particularly concerned that homosexuality was spreading like wildfire" and in a manner that was in direct contravention of the Constitution. Samoa is founded on God after all. After a few reads it also became obvious that the people featured in the vox pops where also those in other stories. A great piece of lazy journalism.
Driving on the wrong side of the road, as they do in Samoa, took some practice. Amazingly our one crash in Samoa didn't involve either Jess or I driving. The bus did it all on its own, but that didn't mean there weren't any dramas whilst we were at wheel. A number of times I smashed my hand into the door looking for reverse, which of course was on my right and not my left. Similarly corners and rain caused similar antics as I never quite got the hang of which side was my indicator and which my windscreen wiper. This normally wasn't particularly unfortunate, but one night while we were driving home Jess was admiring a small gecko on the windscreen when it came time for us to turn a corner. To screams of "Sam!" I realised too late what I had done, the poor gecko was whisked from the windscreen by the wiper I had mistakenly cued to indicate that we were turning left.
31 July 2006
28 July 2006
samoa
Early Thursday morning I returned from a fortnight or so spent in Samoa. To sum up my trip, anybody with plans to visit me here in Tonga should change them and start planning to go to Samoa instead. Samoa is far more beautiful and at the same time tourist friendly. Admittedly, Jess' presence in Samoa may mean I left with a more favourable impression than any ordinary tourist, but the small slice of Polynesia I currently call home pales in comparison.
My time in Samoa was broken up roughly into four lots.
For the first few days, while Jess was still working, I spent my days exploring the capital Apia. I watched Jess' dance performance (I would share the photos, but I value our relationship too much), snorkelled at the Palolo Deep Marine Conservation reserve (so many fish), visited the Robert Louis Stevenson Museum, the Museum of Samoa and generally made my way to almost every tourist attraction in town. Compared to Nuku'alofa, Apia is big. Well bigger, at least. However, it doesn't really contain enough to occupy four full days. Fortunately, friends and relatives hanging out in the workplace is entirely acceptable in Samao (and Tonga) so I was able to spend a few hours each day at Ministry of Women and Community Development, chatting to Jess, reading the paper, checking emails, etc. This was really good, as I wouldn’t have seen enough of Jess otherwise.
With the first week over and Jess on leave for the second, we were able to hop in our shiny, red hyundai getz hire-car and explore Upolu and Savaii the two main islands of Samoa. We started by heading out of Apia, on Upolu, catching the ferry across to Savaii and enjoying three days of sun and relaxation as we circumnavigated the island staying at various beach fales on our way. On the fourth day, we allowed ourselves plenty of time to catch the ferry back to Upolu. Just as well. When we parked at Saleolonga Wharf to confirm that we were on the ferry, a bus backed over our hire car. Read Jess’s blog for a good account of the accident and drama that followed, I am trying to keep this entry to a manageable size.
After a day off at home to catch up on domestic chores and get over the drama on Savaii, we set off to spend a few more relaxing days on Upolu. After enjoying a nice lunch at The Curry House overlooking Apia from high up on the Cross Island road we journeyed down to Samoana Resort, photo above. Samoana is a surf resort so we went with some trepidation that we would be surrounded by 20 guys only interested in the waves breaking out the front. In the end, the place was fairly empty and the other guests included only one small group of surfers. For the most part, we felt we had the place to ourselves. The two days of lounging around by the pool or in hammocks, using the resorts kayaks or snorkelling were very nice indeed. It probably helped that the Channel Nine travel program was visiting the following week, so the place looked immaculate.
After two nights of luxury, we went back to beach fales at Virgin Cove. Apart from the tranquil white sandy beach, we also enjoyed an umu (food cooked in a traditional underground oven) and a fiefia, which included some spectacular fire dancing.
to be continued.
My time in Samoa was broken up roughly into four lots.
For the first few days, while Jess was still working, I spent my days exploring the capital Apia. I watched Jess' dance performance (I would share the photos, but I value our relationship too much), snorkelled at the Palolo Deep Marine Conservation reserve (so many fish), visited the Robert Louis Stevenson Museum, the Museum of Samoa and generally made my way to almost every tourist attraction in town. Compared to Nuku'alofa, Apia is big. Well bigger, at least. However, it doesn't really contain enough to occupy four full days. Fortunately, friends and relatives hanging out in the workplace is entirely acceptable in Samao (and Tonga) so I was able to spend a few hours each day at Ministry of Women and Community Development, chatting to Jess, reading the paper, checking emails, etc. This was really good, as I wouldn’t have seen enough of Jess otherwise.
With the first week over and Jess on leave for the second, we were able to hop in our shiny, red hyundai getz hire-car and explore Upolu and Savaii the two main islands of Samoa. We started by heading out of Apia, on Upolu, catching the ferry across to Savaii and enjoying three days of sun and relaxation as we circumnavigated the island staying at various beach fales on our way. On the fourth day, we allowed ourselves plenty of time to catch the ferry back to Upolu. Just as well. When we parked at Saleolonga Wharf to confirm that we were on the ferry, a bus backed over our hire car. Read Jess’s blog for a good account of the accident and drama that followed, I am trying to keep this entry to a manageable size.
After a day off at home to catch up on domestic chores and get over the drama on Savaii, we set off to spend a few more relaxing days on Upolu. After enjoying a nice lunch at The Curry House overlooking Apia from high up on the Cross Island road we journeyed down to Samoana Resort, photo above. Samoana is a surf resort so we went with some trepidation that we would be surrounded by 20 guys only interested in the waves breaking out the front. In the end, the place was fairly empty and the other guests included only one small group of surfers. For the most part, we felt we had the place to ourselves. The two days of lounging around by the pool or in hammocks, using the resorts kayaks or snorkelling were very nice indeed. It probably helped that the Channel Nine travel program was visiting the following week, so the place looked immaculate.
After two nights of luxury, we went back to beach fales at Virgin Cove. Apart from the tranquil white sandy beach, we also enjoyed an umu (food cooked in a traditional underground oven) and a fiefia, which included some spectacular fire dancing.
to be continued.
5 July 2006
the king's birthday
4 July is a major celebration in Tonga, though here it is the King's Birthday (and not independence) that is being celebrated. This year marks King Taufa'ahau Tupou IV's 88th birthday. Which is not bad going for a guy who at various stages of his reign has weighed in excess of 200 kilograms.
Accompanying the King's birthday celebrations is the fortnight long Heilala Festival which culminates with the crowning of Miss Heilala on Friday night. One of the AYADs that I arrived with is working with the Tonga National Youth Congress. So it was, partly out of allegiance and partly through earlier notice, that rather than any of the three other fundraisers that it was with the TNYC Miss Heilala event that I got into the swing of festivities last Wednesday night. On the night we enjoyed a singing, dancing, introduction of the Miss Heilala contestants (accompanied by some very muscular and well-oiled Tongan bodybuilders) and a glass or two of the free Koala Blue Shiraz.
The next birthday function I got along to, was a very unregal hip-hop dance competition. Though I guess kings and hip hop performers share a love of tacky gold jewelry. After sitting through three entertaining, though sometimes torturously protracted hours, of Tongan teen hip-hop dancing I am finally convinced that Tongan children are made indestructible. There is no other explanation for their ability, and willingness, to repeatedly throw themselves around in the reckless manner required for their version of hip-hop dancing. It was also quite impressive that the makeshift stage held up to all the abuse. The crowd competed for our attention with the movement and energy of those in the stands of Atele Stadium often drawing our focus away from the onstage antics. So much so, that one of them even one a prize for her impromptu dancing.
Tuesday was the big day. The King wasn't well enough to attend in person, looking from within his palace instead, but that didn't detract too much from the day for me. I wasn't lucky enough to be inside for the palace grounds for the main festivities, though some AYADs did score an invite. I did however enjoy laughing at the petiteness of the French soldiers, as opposed to their Tongan counterparts, and the kitschness of the Miss Heilala floats in the seemingly compulsory parade that took place on the day. The picture above of Miss Keipi's Cake Art is one of the few I took that worked out. Although there are three Tongans from Australia competing in the competition, Keipi's Cake Art is just around the corner from my house in Fasi, so I am going for her. Though after the early rounds of the competition, she didn't look much of a shot. The winner is announced tonight.
The celebrations were disrupted somewhat today. The King's nephew Prince TuÂ’ipelehake and his wife Princess Kaimana TukuÂ’aho died in a car accident in the San Francisco area. A sad event, but this country is well prepared for a sad event. Expectations about the King's passing were very openly expresssed in the speeches made this week and in the press. So it is that I am well prepared for the need to wear black clothes for perhaps a month starting on Monday (leaving aside my trip to Samoa).
Today was meant ro be a happy day, I moved to my new office with windows and a cross breeze. Can't have it all my own way in paradise, I guess.
Accompanying the King's birthday celebrations is the fortnight long Heilala Festival which culminates with the crowning of Miss Heilala on Friday night. One of the AYADs that I arrived with is working with the Tonga National Youth Congress. So it was, partly out of allegiance and partly through earlier notice, that rather than any of the three other fundraisers that it was with the TNYC Miss Heilala event that I got into the swing of festivities last Wednesday night. On the night we enjoyed a singing, dancing, introduction of the Miss Heilala contestants (accompanied by some very muscular and well-oiled Tongan bodybuilders) and a glass or two of the free Koala Blue Shiraz.
The next birthday function I got along to, was a very unregal hip-hop dance competition. Though I guess kings and hip hop performers share a love of tacky gold jewelry. After sitting through three entertaining, though sometimes torturously protracted hours, of Tongan teen hip-hop dancing I am finally convinced that Tongan children are made indestructible. There is no other explanation for their ability, and willingness, to repeatedly throw themselves around in the reckless manner required for their version of hip-hop dancing. It was also quite impressive that the makeshift stage held up to all the abuse. The crowd competed for our attention with the movement and energy of those in the stands of Atele Stadium often drawing our focus away from the onstage antics. So much so, that one of them even one a prize for her impromptu dancing.
Tuesday was the big day. The King wasn't well enough to attend in person, looking from within his palace instead, but that didn't detract too much from the day for me. I wasn't lucky enough to be inside for the palace grounds for the main festivities, though some AYADs did score an invite. I did however enjoy laughing at the petiteness of the French soldiers, as opposed to their Tongan counterparts, and the kitschness of the Miss Heilala floats in the seemingly compulsory parade that took place on the day. The picture above of Miss Keipi's Cake Art is one of the few I took that worked out. Although there are three Tongans from Australia competing in the competition, Keipi's Cake Art is just around the corner from my house in Fasi, so I am going for her. Though after the early rounds of the competition, she didn't look much of a shot. The winner is announced tonight.
The celebrations were disrupted somewhat today. The King's nephew Prince TuÂ’ipelehake and his wife Princess Kaimana TukuÂ’aho died in a car accident in the San Francisco area. A sad event, but this country is well prepared for a sad event. Expectations about the King's passing were very openly expresssed in the speeches made this week and in the press. So it is that I am well prepared for the need to wear black clothes for perhaps a month starting on Monday (leaving aside my trip to Samoa).
Today was meant ro be a happy day, I moved to my new office with windows and a cross breeze. Can't have it all my own way in paradise, I guess.
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